The Globe as you know it is changing.
Coming June 2019

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To understand more about why you are so important to our member-supported initiative, we encourage you to read the following from our managing editor ~ Read more

The Globe as you know it is changing.

Since 2007, Southeast Asia Globe has been a space for some of the region’s best writers and photographers to take our readers behind the headlines into the stories that shape people’s lives. Every month, you could expect to pick up our latest print edition and find high-quality journalism, analysis and artwork waiting on every page. And since 2007, we’ve fought to uphold our promise of quality and independence to you, our readers.

But, like we said, the world is changing. Print publications just aren’t reaching the audiences they need to fulfil their promise of informing, educating and entertaining the public. Advertisers continue to invest in digital platforms while printing costs creep ever higher. Print may not be dead, but it’s fighting for its life. And we’re tired of waiting by a sickbed for its condition to improve. We want to be present at the birth of something new.

That’s why Southeast Asia Globe is relaunching as a member-driven platform featuring daily long-form features combining world-class journalism with enthralling art design and data-centered tech. Through our core pillars – Power, Money, Life and Earth – we are focusing in on the central issues that our readers have always engaged with most, with the same in-depth coverage of politics, business, social affairs and the environment that you’ve come to expect since 2007.

But leaving print behind us doesn’t just save our backs from lugging stacks of magazines across Southeast Asia. It opens up a global readership who don’t just want to read the news, but have a say in the stories that we tell and the way that we tell them. We’re not asking you to take out another magazine subscription – our stories are open to all. What we’re offering our members is a space where they can pitch and vote on the stories that they think deserve to be told. We want to inspire an engaged and active community of members who vote for, comment on and contribute to the stories that matter most to them. We want to work with our members to curate the way they engage with the news – not just as readers, but as an active extension of our editorial team.

That’s how we’re changing to bring you great stories. Here’s how we’re not.

We’re independent. Always have been, always will be. We’re not owned by any corporation or aligned with any state. We choose the stories that we tell, and the way that we tell them.

We’re creative. We’re not interested in churning out breaking news stories on the hour, every hour. We believe that the best stories are the ones that come alive on the page, digging deeper into the issues that shape Southeast Asia – and bringing you along for the ride. From our dedicated designers to our new software development team, our commitment is to constantly challenge ourselves to find new ways of reaching out to our readers.

We’re open. Challenging governments, NGOs and businesses to be transparent with the public means nothing if we keep our own readers in the dark. That’s why we will be completely open about why we tell the stories that we tell – and how we pay for them. Work with us to build something that endures where many media fail, and decide with us exactly where that money is going.

Above all, we’re optimistic. And yeah, we know what you’re thinking. Faced with impending climate collapse, the rise of right-wing authoritarian governments across the world, widening wealth and income inequality and deepening divisions rooted in race or gender or creed, it’s hard not to open the papers and feel the weight of the world pressing down. But we wouldn’t be doing this if we didn’t believe that when people work together, they can make their little corner of the world a more just, open and equal place.

And that’s why we can’t do this without you. We believe that across the globe is a community of people who care deeply about social justice, environmental action and press freedom – and who will join in to help make those ideals a reality. We’re not just holding our hand out – we need your voice to play a vital role in building Southeast Asia Globe into a leading space for progressive causes in the region. Tell us what stories the mainstream media is missing. Share with us the causes that matter most to you, and how we can champion those causes not just across Southeast Asia, but the world.

Our vision is clear. By 2025, we want to be recognised for building a great space for outstanding journalists from across the region to explore new ways of telling Southeast Asia’s most vital stories. Let’s bring together a community of engaged and loyal members who want to help reshape the media rather than just read it. And we want to reach a point where our readers, not advertisers, are the ones working to support our shared vision of an inclusive media.

We can’t do this without you. Let’s get together and build something that we all believe in.

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Food tour / Discover the delights of Cambodian cuisine with a tuk tuk tour

By: Tom O'Connell - Posted on: August 17, 2018 | Cambodia

A Siem Reap-based food tour expands to Phnom Penh to help first-time visitors and expats alike unlock the Cambodian capital’s culinary secrets by tuk tuk

Phnom Penh Food Tours tries out market stalls a few times before bringing guests Photo: Phnom Penh Food Tours

The tour kicked off at sunset at the top of the steps of Phnom Penh’s Olympic Stadium, with a salted duck egg and a thin plastic cup filled with ice and sugarcane juice – in a plastic bag with a handle, ubiquitous on takeaway beverages in the capital. Then guests descended to the stadium market to sample nom banh chok, a Khmer comfort food of coconut broth, turmeric, galangal, sliced banana blossom, cucumber and fresh herbs on a bed of rice noodles.

These and many more Cambodian staples are featured on the all-inclusive tuk tuk food cruises of the Khmer capital being arranged by the newly christened Phnom Penh Food Tours, from the expats who have run Siem Reap Food Tours since 2015.

Cambodian cuisine is an enigma to the uninitiated, and that’s partly because of a fear of three words: fermented fish paste – or “prahok”, in Khmer. Because prahok is the backbone of the cuisine, newcomers can be squeamish, and locals often aren’t very helpful in breaking that fear.

Noodle soup and banh chao (crepe) Photo: Phnom Penh Food Tours

“Cambodians are careful to shield visitors from fermented fish,” said Steven Halcrow, the Scottish chef who developed the tour alongside his partner, American writer Lina Goldberg. “Foreigners have gravitated away from [the cuisine] because they don’t like the phrase fermented fish. Cambodians have seen that and said foreigners don’t like Khmer food. That’s led to a confusion about what Khmer food really is. When tourists come here, they’re given a dumbed-down version of the food.”

But prahok is nothing to be feared, said Halcrow, who always points out the big buckets of gray goop to guests he takes into markets.

“We always show this to people. It is very palatable,” said Halcrow. “Very few people don’t like it. I always use the comparison of a bouillon cube, and they’re not adverse to that. Prahok is doing the same thing, providing a base for the other flavours to ride on. Without it, you have these bland ingredients sitting in a bowl.”

Fermented fish is not the only thing that gives visitors the creepy-crawlies. Halcrow and crew have plenty of myths to dispel – assuring guests they’re not trying out for a game show.

“We do not run a Fear Factor-style food experience,” he said. “Many people who visit Cambodia expect everyone to be eating tarantulas and crickets because that is another element of the way Cambodian food is perceived around the world.”

The pair’s Siem Reap Food Tours has picked up accolades from the New York Times, Vogue and the British press, and they recently decided to expand to the capital, where they’ve been training new bilingual Khmer staff and are continually trying out new restaurants and food stalls for their guests.

Halcrow’s carefully refined process of choosing which food experiences to include on the tour sounds like a culinary adventure in itself. It helps that he is fluent in Khmer, which took him two years to learn. Eventually he was able to have conversations with market vendors, food stall operators and restaurant workers. That serves him and the business well as they take their show off the well-trod tourist paths.

When choosing food experiences, they look for a few key elements: food freshness and flavour, approachability and friendliness of a place, good service, and safe food practices and cleanliness. Steaming pots are a good sign, some sort of heat source or a smoking-hot wok – “if your food’s coming straight out of that, it’s safe”, Halcrow advised. “Also, places with a lot of people sitting around them, the food is fresh.” They’ll visit a location three or four times to make sure it hits all the right marks consistently before adding it to the tour.

From Olympic Stadium, the intimate food tour’s two hired tuk tuks, each with its own guide – Jen, an American, and Sokha, a Cambodian-American – whisked two couples across town for the second stop, a large outdoor green space nestled in the shadow of a highway overpass. The lawn, surrounded by food carts, was filled with couples, families and young people eating street food and drinking sodas and beers on blankets provided by the vendors.

Jen and Sokha put orders in at various carts, and soon containers filled with steaming local delicacies were placed before the guests. Dishes included easy-eating comforts like grilled dried beef, water buffalo, chicken wing tips and dried squid, along with papaya salad and toasted baguette with which guests built sandwiches. And then there was more adventurous fare like skewered intestines and other organ meats – and the de rigueur stuffed frogs.

The tour continued to a quiet market to try the infamously stinky and off-putting durian fruit, a first sampling for most of the guests. Next up was an air-conditioned barbecue restaurant where guests dipped succulent pork and beef cuts into the deceptively simple tuk meric, a slurry made of salt, pepper and lime, washing it down with several iced bottles of Angkor and Cambodia lager.

Then it was back onto the tuk tuks, which whisked the diners to the final stop of the night, a lively late-night sidewalk cafe where they shared heaps of tuk kak chhous, the traditional shaved-ice dessert. They savoured the treat, drizzled with condensed milk and coconut milk, and topped with a variety of tapioca noodles, custards, jellies and sticky rice porridge, before parting ways with full bellies and, perhaps, more courageous palates.

Morning and evening food tours in Phnom Penh are $65 per person and can be booked at phnompenhfoodtours.com.

This article was published in the August 2018 edition of Southeast Asia Globe magazine. For full access, subscribe here.